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| Yes. The shape, size, direction and angle of a scratch have varying degrees of impact on play performance. Circumferential scratches (curved scratches that lie in a direction around the disc) are more likely to cause problems than radial scratches (scratches that go from the inside of the disc toward the outside, like spokes on a bicycle wheel.) |
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The play side of the disc is the shiny side, the label side is the dull side. Scratches visible on the label side of the disc are always due to label-side damage, but the reverse isn't always true.
Method #1 - Hold the disc 12" or so from a light source with the play (shiny) side facing you. If you can see through a scratch, that scratch is definitely on the label side. If you can't see through the scratch, it is probably on the play side. Use Method #2 to be sure.
Method #2 - Tilt disc so you are looking at the scratch from an angle. If the scratch has a reflection in the surface of the disc then the scratch is on the play side. If not, the scratch is on the label side.
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| Many times. Removing a significant amount of material from the play side would eventually affect your disc player's ability to focus on the data. However, since our scratch repair device is designed to remove only a very thin layer of material (just enough to repair most discs), the same disc should be repairable a dozen or more times. |
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| The wheel should be replaced after approximately 50 disc repairs. The abrasive on the outside of the wheel will lose effectiveness after repeated disc resurfacing. |
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| Rinse the abrasive outer rim of the wheel under cold water while rubbing with your fingertips. It's important to rinse the wheel after each repair session or after every ten complete disc revolutions. |
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| Yes, this is normal and it does not affect the playability of the disc. Most of the spoke-like resurfacing pattern can be buffed out with the buffing square. |
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| Spray the disc 3-5 times for each complete revolution. |
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| Washing these items is not recommended. If used only for intended purposes, you should not need to wash the drying cloth or buffing square. Replacement clothes and squares are available in the Replacement Accessories Kit. |
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The final buffing step restores the reflectivity of the disc to approximately its original condition. Think of it as wiping away the condensed steam on your bathroom mirror after a shower. Just as wiping away the steam allows the mirror to reflect your image, buffing away the resurfacing pattern allows the disc to properly reflect the laser from the disc player.
The buffing process is best done dry because it relies on heat from friction to smooth the play-side surface (like glazing ice). Any water remaining on the surface cools the disc so that it doesn't "glaze" as well.
Be sure to properly store the buffing square to keep it clean and free from debris, which could cause scratches. |
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| The resurfacing fluid is distilled, filtered water with .05% alcohol added as a preservative. Tap water is not recommended because it may contain minerals and contaminants that may impact the effectiveness of the repair process. We recommend purchasing replacement Resurfacing Fluid for more consistent results. |
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| Do not do this. The resurfacing wheel will wear out much more quickly and the resurfacing will be less effective. Dry resurfacing could result in the adhesive from the wheel being smeared onto the disc surface and damage the disc |
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| To attach the wheel, you will need to slightly bend the wheel and position the center of the wheel over the three attachment prongs. |
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| The repair process involves the removal of a small layer of the plastic coating on the CD or DVD. This process requires precise and consistent application and slow movement. |
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| The repair progress can be monitored the left of the wheel. You can gauge the progress by simply watching the disc as it goes around. |
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| Nintendo games discs are in a 3" format size and require the SkipDR 3" adaptor. This is currently available for products made before April 2004. |
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